Recoring...

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The port side seats had been cracked and water had rotted the cored seats completely.  It's not clear how they got cracked, it looked like something very heavy had been dropped on them.

The seats seemed like a safe place to start learning how to recore and relaminate.  They would usually be covered with cushions and any problems could be covered up.

On the recommendation of several other Cape Dory owners, I used end-grain cedar to replace the rotten balsa core.  The open area was some damage beyond the cored area. 

 


After multiple layers of fiberglass cloth, the core is ready for fairing.  The original top layer of glass was not salvageable. 

After some fairing filler and lots more sanding, port side seats (there is an equal amount of damage further aft...) are quite smooth and solid.

  
The cabin top had core damage from leaky jib tracks.  The starboard side looked equally bad on the surface (extensive gelcoat cracking and corrosion on the screws from the inside).  After cutting off the top layer of glass on the starboard side, all I found was perfectly dry, solid-as- the-day-it-was-laid core!

With so much core work ahead, it was a little discouraging to be making work for myself.  At least I know that the core is now solid on both sides.  

The cockpit sole also needed lots of attention.  The blue non-skid (just paint with grit as original) was removed to show the full extent of the damage.

The recoring process was getting to be very straight forward at this point.  The only catch was that I kept stepping where I just worked!  The cockpit is not very big.

Just as I was starting to feel like I was making headway, I drilled a few test holes on the poop (stern) deck.   On the surface it looked great.  The bow was clearly a disaster zone, but the stern looked so smooth and solid. 

Wrong.  Total black mush.  The poop deck core was 75% gone! The cleats, outboard bracket and mainsheet blocks had clearly never been rebedded.

I made a major mistake by not coming up with some way to support the very flimsy bottom layer of glass.  Access to this area from underneath is far worse than an MRI machine...  The weights to hold down the new core -- also pushed down the weak deck.

 

After lots of extra work and fairing, I am finally pretty happy with the new curve of the deck. With the new taffrail in place and some of the hardware replaced.
 
Recoring the foredeck

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One day I just couldn't take it any more.  Clearly the deck was a major problem, but I was reluctant to cut off the whole deck only to find I was cutting out solid core.  Out came the hole saw and the next thing I knew the deck looked like swiss cheese. I would not recommend this technique as my fairing job wasn't as good as it looked under cover.  In the bright sun, a few of the holes broadcast through the paint.  One day I will have to refair and repaint these areas so I don't have a constant reminder of my lack of patience. 

With the panel saw, it was just a matter of connecting the "dots".  What I found beneath was a bit disconcerting.  The area under the bow cleat (center) went straight through to the cabin liner.  

There were also several very large voids in the deck lay-up.   They appear to be from large air bubbles with only a few remnants of fiberglass cloth on top. The voids were filled with thickened epoxy and chopped cloth to try to create a solid, level surface for the new deck core.

 


After many layers of glass and almost an entire gallon of West System epoxy, the deck is faired and coated with two coats of epoxy ready for priming.

The recess down the center of the deck more than doubled the time to complete the recore and lamination.  It's not perfect, but it looked respectable once painted.

The solid epoxy/glass combination for the deck cleat should prevent any future disasters.

There were areas of delamination on both the port and starboard side near the chainplates.  The deck had been raised to the original position and a telltale hump remained in the two excised areas.  Each side was cut back to solidly adhered, dry core.  

The top layer of glass was significantly thicker in this area than in any other I had to remove.

   

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